Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teeri log cabin is a part of the Finnforest Finn Life range.

At any moment you could be either outside enjoying the sunshine, or in your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin enjoying games and drinking a cool juice. On occasion you want time for yourself in the Teeri's secluded rear room; instead you want to be the focus of attention in the L-shaped main room. During the week it's back to business - your able to use the Teeri for hosting events too! Never a dull moment.

Finnforest log cabin components are precision-cut from top quality Scandinavian softwood for an immaculate fit. The timber comes from well-managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist. Building your Finnlife Teeri log cabin using the excellent plans supplied is simple and straightforward. The result is a professional-looking job that you'll be happy to call your own.

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Lovely, long summer days might be coming, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Teeri log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

You might show this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who completes the work, the first stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.
Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the end outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Tick off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part place them out on the ground around the site of the finn life log cabin. Lay each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by placeing wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now fix the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends indicates a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Teeri Cabin

Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Build your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Finnlife Models