Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

The Finnforest Talo Log Cabin is multi-purpose; it offers both a convenient store room and also has a decent sized space in the main room. The store room is cordoned off the main room and can be entered through its own external door, no only allowing a room for storage of equipment and garden furniture but perhaps another quiet room.

Like all Finnlife log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.
Why Buy FinnForest?

Assembly of the Finnlife Talo Log Cabin is made easy with the clearly illustrated and clear to follow step by step plans. Fully glazed windows and exterior panels make life easier for you.

FEATURES:

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Separate side room

DIMENSIONS:

Internal: 4.47m x 3.51m (14ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.76m x 3.80m (15ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Internal Area: 15.69m² (169 ft²)
External Area: 18.09m² (195 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.90m (9'6")

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

Those slow summer evenings might be enticing, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

You may present this document to a carpenter then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the first stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a full set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every piece lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s a good idea to running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards finish in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When constructing the Finn Life Log Cabin during the summer periods, we advise to leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. When constructing during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Place ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Talo Cabin

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

Finnlife Models