Finnlife Seita Log Cabin

The Finnlife Seita Log Cabin is provided with a veranda giving a quaint air to this [Blog cabin and has been designed to utilise the most space.

With its half glazed door and opening window this charming log cabin is a great place to while away the hours. The walls are made using tongue and groove 28mm timber with the corners finished in an interlocking design for further strength.

* Roof with shingles for long-lasting protection from the elements
* Half glazed doors
* Opening window
* Veranda with handrail
* Tongue and groove timber
* 28mm thick walls
* Interlocking corners for a sturdy construction

As with Finnlife Log Cabins, the Seita can come with underfloor heating.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
View dimensions in: Metric

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height Ridge Height
Seita 334.8cm 484.8cm 0cm 263.2cm
Seita with underfloor heating 334.8cm 484.8cm 0cm 263.2cm

Windows
Seita 1 front opening window
Seita with underfloor heating 1 front opening window

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Seita 0cm 0cm
Seita with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine
Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Seita Styrene
Seita with underfloor heating Glass

Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Seita 2.8cm
Seita with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Finnlife Log Cabins - Some Building Instructions

Gorgeous, lounging summer evenings might be enticing, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Seita Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to present this text to a carpenter then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your finished Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Your built Finnlife Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They provide a firm base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air beneath the cabin by blocking the open end. To stop damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging offers a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Else you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are easy to notice. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin model; please refer to your individual Building Plans and Parts List.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends reveals a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As every gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Seita Cabin

Finnlife Seita Log Cabin

Finnlife Log Cabins - Some Building Instructions

Finnlife Models