Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

The Finnlife Puro Log Cabin, released just last year, conforms to a traditional scandinavian design. As with many of the Finnlife log cabins the logs are 28mm in thickness. Whatever corner of your garden you intend to place the cabin in is simply perfect. The roof of the [Blog cabinand the floor are manufactured of oriented strand board and the roof covering is shingle tile. These boards are also 28mm thick.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height Ridge Height
Puro 262cm 262cm 0cm 280cm
Puro with underfloor heating 262cm 262cm 0cm 280cm

Windows
Puro 2 side opening windows
Puro with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Puro 0cm 0cm
Puro with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm
Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Puro Styrene
Puro with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Solid Sheet Material

Roof Material Solid Sheet Material

Cladding Width
Puro 2.8cm
Puro with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Instructions for building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Fantastic, long summer evenings may be beckoning, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Puro log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this document to a carpenter then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every piece near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the location of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards end in a flush ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When erecting the Finn Life Log Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. When building during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a saw to trim it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Puro Cabin

Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

Instructions for building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models