Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat or two in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room for a full extended pool cue - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Construct your Pori Log Cabin

Fantastic, long summer afternoons might be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it yourself!

You may show this document to a handyman then sit back until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to build you should ensure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If needed, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Pori Cabin

Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Construct your Pori Log Cabin

Finnlife Models