Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The Finnforest Mokki Log Cabin can be a spacious and light summber cabin/shed housing a pair of doors and nice large window, allowing for an ideal and never-resented extra sitting room;

Finnforest cabins are manufactured employing the best quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry. It's alternate layering of the wall logs allows for a rigid building - a standard of excellence unique to Finnlife Log Cabins.

Clearl and well drawn, step-by-step instructions come with your cabin making assembly easier and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, which will save you time.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 3.54m x 2.70m (11ft 7in)
External: 3.80m x 2.96m (12ft 5in x 9ft 8in)
Internal Area: 9.56m² (103 ft²)
External Area: 11.25m² (121 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.51m (8'3")
It isrecommend that a concrete base is used and the cabin walls are approximately 35mm off the ground. The floor has floor joists which are pressure treated.

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Building a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Wonderful slow summer afternoons might be calling, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No spec log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair ofialist knowledge are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

It’s possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.
For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from these.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is important. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Begin with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and bottom level. Lay them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Cabin comes with internal walls, also place the half-height wall boards that make up the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help.

Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Lay the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints gap together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Lay them in the appropriate position.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board should be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When constructing the Finn Life Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where constructing during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Mokki Cabin

Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Building a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Finnlife Models