Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

The Finnforest Lovisa Log Cabin: Attractive, Functional and Exciting!

The Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin is a gorgeous cabin giving you an awesome amount of terraced area and a roomy space inside with even more internal room offering you more options and the scope to rearrange and improve.

Like all log cabins in the Finnlife range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife are harmonious.

One of only two log cabins (the
Finnlife Helsinki being the other) that features an upstairs storage area accessable via a ladder. Use it as a storage space, use it as a hideaway, the choice is yours!

Well illustrated, step-by-step plans are supplied with your cabin making assembly more simple and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Why buy the Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

* Very well structured
* Storage Space
* Gorgeous features
* Easy to convert Sauna Space
* Upstairs room
* Front terrace
* Fully Glazed windows
* Spacious Interior

What is the building used for:

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 45mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual
* Outside terrace
* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 5.64m x 3.63m (18ft 6in x 11ft 11in)
External: 5.90m x 5.94m (19ft 3in x 19ft 5in)
Total Internal Area: 20.48m² (220 ft²)
Total External Area: 30.52m² (329 ft²)
Ridge Height: 3.40m (11ft 2in")

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Construct the Lovisa Log Cabin

The long summer evenings might be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

You might present this text to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Tick off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Put out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Log Cabin is complete you can then go back and trim away any additional polythene/DPC membrane visible. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Log Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends indicates a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the final shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Put the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Lovisa Cabin

Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

Construct the Lovisa Log Cabin

Finnlife Models