Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Lampi log cabin is a member of the Finnforest quality range of outdoor buildings.

Since it comes in such a small package, the Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin still has loads to offer. It can be your very own hideaway, home office, storage area or kids playroom.

The Finn Life Lampi is the answer you are looking for!

The Finnforest Lampi is comprised of Scandinavian design, with logs of 28mm in thickness. The compact size of this superb log cabin is simply ideal for those who need everything in their garden

The roof and floor is made up of Tongue and Groove which makes this cabin even more stable and sturdy and gives it superb longevity. This building features two opening windows and glazed door, providing a chic look.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
View dimensions in: MetricImperial
Warranty 15 year guarantee

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height

Ridge Height
Lampi 296cm 200cm 0cm 231cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 296cm 200cm 0cm 231cm


Windows
Lampi 2 opening windows
Lampi with underfloor heating 2 opening windows
Door Opening Size (w x h)
Lampi 0cm 0cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Lampi Styrene
Lampi with underfloor heating Styrene
Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Lampi 2.8cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 2.8cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Glazing Thickness 0cm


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How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

The long summer days might be beckoning, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Lampi log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!

You might show this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finnlife Log Cabin
reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Begin with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and bottom level. Put them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your
Finnlife Log Cabin
also has internal walls, also set the half-height wall boards that make up the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance.

Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Put the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints opening together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Put them in the suitable position.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards in sequence starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends indicates a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.



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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos

 
March 9, 2010
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