Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kopello Log Cabin: The multipurpose hall that never closes - snooker, dance or village.

The Finnforest Kopello log cabin is made from only the finest quality softwood taken from sustainable forests in the Scandinavian region. The cabin features wall logs in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints which give a weatherproof building.

Why buy the Finnforest Kopello Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - consult your retailer for details.

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Construct the Koppelo Log Cabin

Relaxing, lounging summer days may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

You might show this document to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who does the job, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each part near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any leftover cutdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now fix the position of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Koppelo Cabin

Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

Construct the Koppelo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models