Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin allows you to enjoy the eternal summer evenings. In this spot is the place to share a slow leisurely sunset with your nearest and dearest.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured using only the highest quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are consciously managed and where industry and wildlife eke out a harmonious existence. The wall logs are set in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints, allowing for a totally weatherproof building.

The for this log cabin are set out step-by-step and well illustrated. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is packed in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Internal: 4.17m x 3.51m (13ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.46m x 3.80m (14ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")
Internal Area: 14.64m² (158 ft²)
External Area: 16.95m² (182 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")

Please note that the wood will need to be treated after is it assembled

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Building Your Finnlife Log Cabin

Lovely, lounging summer days may be coming, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

You might present this document to a handyman then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, no matter who does the job, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.
For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is important. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Lay out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is finished you can then go back and remove away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane visible. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the proper gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Kesa Cabin

Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

Building Your Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models