Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Jarvi is completetly perfect for your garden, but like all cabins in the Finnlife range, it can be a very flexible building.

The Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin has 28mm thick logs for the walls, a single door, and a window. One of the interesting features is the pair of lockable window shutters. During the day you can shelter from the sun and rain underneath the Jarvi's wide canopy; at night you can secure your possessions behind the shutters.

Finnforest log cabins are built using the highest quality sustainable softwood from Scandinavian forests which are well managed and where industry and wildlife coexist harmoniously. The wall logs are layered alternatelytogether with windproof tongue and groove joints, which results in a building thats weatherproof.

Well illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with with your log cabin making assembly easier and simpler to follow. The doors and windows come fully glazed saving you a lot of work. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is in the right order for assembly, thus negating any time consuming reordering.

Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Wide canopy across the front

Dimensions
Internal: 2.70m x 2.24m (8ft 10in x 7ft 4in)
External: 2.96m x 2.50m (9ft 9in x 8ft 3in
Ridge Height: 2.25m (7ft 5in)
Internal Area: 6.05m² (65 ft²)
External Area: 7.40m² (79 ft²)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers.

The Finnforest Jarvi provides:

# A comfortable cabin in your garden that will create a home office away from the hustle and bustle, a guest hideaway, somewhere to chill out - even a sauna.

# Superior 28mm tongue and groove timber wall boarding.

# Pre-hung door and one opening window supplied with styrene glazing.

# Window shutters lockable from the inside.

# Felt shingle roof.

Return to top

Instructions on construction of a Finn Life Log Cabin

Beautiful, slow summer evenings may be enticing, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is put together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It is possible to show this document to a carpenter then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each part close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to set parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Your finished Finn Life Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They offer a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not obstruct the flow of air beneath the cabin by blocking the open end. To stop damp rising into your cabin each floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Else you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are easy to recognise. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finn Life Cabin model; please refer to your individual Building Plans and Parts List.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finnlife Jarvi Cabin

Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Instructions on construction of a Finn Life Log Cabin

Finnlife Models