Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finnforest Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just what you need to work at home.

Some jobs require more space. Architects hit the drawing board; graphic designers are all about the big screen; film and video-makers want an indoor studio

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Fantastic, long summer evenings might be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It is possible to present this document to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, no matter who does the job, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If necessary, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a tight fit, you should knock each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends indicates a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As every gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then secure by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have put the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.
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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Ikkuna Cabin

Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Finnlife Models