Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the only workshop that lets you take up as much space as you like without getting in anyone elses way.

Whether doing it yourself or gardening, each way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.

The Finnlife Hytti has lots of room for tools, DIY equipment, and also comes with a workbench. Also, there isa door that you can shut behind you and let you get on with the things that are really important.

Why buy the Finnforest Hytti Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage

This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!

DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Fantastic, long summer afternoons might be calling, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You might show this text to a handyman then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whoever completes the work, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the base of your Finnlife Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to set components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Set the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If needed, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Make Sure that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a tight fit, you should tap each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Set ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have placed the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finnlife Hytti Cabin

Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models