Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

American Ranch-style lifestyle brings the big country to the back of your home!

The Finn Life Helppo Log Cabin's horizons are incredibly wide, so much so you may think you're in Montana. Here, the possibilities are truly endless. There's plenty of room for storage and also room for play - the Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin also gives you all the time in the world to enjoy the views. If you want, you can still keep yourself busy. Walk around the veranda and see the world from a different angle.

Why buy the Finnforest Helppo Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 34mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Floor and roof T&G
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Roof colour is Green and shingles are square

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.73m
External: 5.70m

Depth:
Internal: 2.83m
External: 4.50m

Ridge Height
External: 29.70m

Area:
Internal: 10.57m²
External: 25.65m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected stockists.

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How to be a builder of your very own Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Gorgeous, slow summer days may be coming, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is put together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it yourself!

You may present this text to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, no matter who does the job, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki,
Finnlife Kesa,
Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is important. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each component near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Note again that if your Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin includes internal walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If required, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should knock each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board should be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When making the Finnlife Log Cabin during the hotter months, we advise to leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. When constructing during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is roughly straight. If needed use a saw to trim it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

Finnlife Models

Finnlife Helppo Cabin

Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

How to be a builder of your very own Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models