Finnlife Cabins UK

Luxury Log Cabins from Finnforest

Potential Log Cabin owner! Now that you've found your way here, you're only a couple of clicks away from a perfect log cabin for you! If you're looking to buy and build your very own Finnlife Log Cabin then this site has just what you require. Study specifications and view images of finn life log cabins from the small but perfectly formed Finnlife Jarvi, the mid-sized Finnlife Mokki to the fantastic Finnlife Helsinki, and compare prices from the leading retailers. Want to get started? Click your favourite image below and Compare Now!

5m/sq to 10m/sq Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

A full range of Finnlife Log Cabins is available through selected retailers!

     

   

10m/sq to 20m/sq Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

     

     

     

 

20m/sq+ Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

     

     

     

Construct yourself a Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, long summer afternoons may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this text to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your finished Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is crucial. Care given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should ensure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every piece near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.


Your finished Finnlife Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They provide a firm base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the flow of air beneath the cabin by blocking the open end. To prohibit damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when made into thin strips. Else you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are easy to recognise. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

A Carpentry Glossary

Glossary of terms
Carpentry Terminology

Architrave - A moulding used to surround a door, window, arch or wooden panelling, or the lowest horizontal moulding of a classical entablature.

Bay window - A window that extends out from the wall of a room, often to floor level giving additional internal floor area.

Beading - A narrow strip of wood with a half round profile used as an ornamental edging.

Bolster chisel - A broad-bladed chisel, normally completely made of steel) used mainly for masonry work but useful for lifting floorboards etc. .

Brace - A diagonal member used to prevent part of a structure from sagging - can either be temporary or permanent.

Cantilever - A projecting beam (or other part of a structure) that is secured at one end only.

Casement window - A window that has vertically and/or horizontally hinged openings and may include non-opening sections of glazing.

Caulking - Sealing joints by applying a flexible compound or sealant.

Chair rail - Another term for dado rail.

Chalk line - A length of string, coated in chalk dust, which is used to produce accurate straight lines for many decorating tasks. The line is held at both ends and 'twanged' against a surface thus transferring chalk dust to it.

Chipboard - A manufactured building board made from compressed and glued wooden particles.

Counter-bore - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using screws in a hole 'counterbored' with a flat bottomed cutter. If the counterbore is deep enough, it may be plugged with a piece of doweling to fully hide the screw head.

Counter-sink - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using counter sink screws in a hole 'countersunk' with a conical-shaped cutter.

Cross grain - Wood grain that is not inline with the main axis of a length of timber.

Dado - Decorative and/or protective panelling on the lower part of an interior wall. AKA Wainscot.

Dado rail - A moulding attached along a wall, about 1 metre (3ft 4in) from the floor, separating the upper and lower areas of the wall. Originally intended to protect the wall from damage by chair backs. AKA Chair Rail.

Dormer window - The window in the vertical end of a dormer.

Dovetail nailing - Nails driven through one piece of wood at opposing angles into another piece thus making it difficult for the timbers to be pulled apart.

Dowel - A short length of wood, round in section, used for a variety of purposes such as joining timbers, plugging fixing holes etc.

Drip groove - A groove cut in the underside of a projection (such as a window sash or sill) to cause rainwater to drip to the ground rather than running under the projection onto the main structure.

End grain - The surface of wood exposed after cutting across the fibres.

Escutcheon - In door furniture, the ornamental and protective plate around the keyhole.

Fanlight - The glazed light above a door, often fan-shaped and ornamented - however the term is applied to any shape of light above a door.

Feather-edged boarding - Plain weatherboard tapering in thickness; the thick edge overlaps the thin edge of the adjacent board - the fixing should go in the thick edge missing the edge of the board underneath. When hung horizontally, the thick edge goes downwards, when used vertically for fencing etc, the thick edge should be away from the prevailing winds.

Fibreboard - A lightweight manufactured board material with little strength, can be used in ceilings or as insulation to attics.

Fielded panel - A wall or door panel with a raised centre area which is sloped off, bevelled or 'fielded' towards the edges.

Finial - A turned or carved ornament usually in the shape of an urn, ball, bun, spike or figure, often used to decorate the ends of staircase newel posts.

Firrings - Pieces of tapered timber fixed to the top of joists to adjust their slope. Can be used under rook decking to give a drainage fall or to bring a sloping surface level.

Fish plate - Steel plates used to join two pieces of timber end to end - the plates (one on each side) overlap both pieces and are secured using bolts through.

Flush door - Doors which have plain, smooth sides - either constructed with a solid or honeycombed core, surfaced with plywood or other laminate on each side.

Fluting - Parallel concave channels used to decorate the surfaces of stone, plaster or timber etc.

French windows - A pair of narrow casement windows that extend to floor level forming a doorway to the garden or other outside area. Traditionally they opened inwards (as traditionally do windows in France), but modern ones may vary.

Glazing bars - The framing members in a window sash which divide and contain the individual glass panes.

Halved joint - Many variation exist; but the principle is that half of each piece of timber is cut away and the remaining halves are fitted over each other.

Hardboard - A thin manufactured board made from compressed wooden particles - one side smooth, the other side rough, Used for covering subfloors etc.

I Beams - Manufactured joists comprising a thin vertical of manufactured board with wider timber fixed along the upper and lower edges. Provide increased loads over wider spans than can often be achieved using solid timbers.

Jamb - The vertical side part of a doorway or window frame.

Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) - A manufactured building board of compressed wooden fibres and used for a variety of interior joinery and building tasks. The dust is harmful and a mask should be used when cutting or drilling.

Mitre - A joint where the two parts are each cut at 45 degrees so that the make a neat rightangle.

Parquet flooring - A flooring traditionally made up of small wooden blocks arranged in a herring-bone or other geometrical pattern. Modern alternatives consist of thinner wooden panels which give the same effect.

Picture rail - A moulding positioned along a wall a short distance down from the ceiling, special hooks are then used to hook onto the rail to support pictures and other wall decorations. The wallpaper would often stop at the underside of the rail and area above would be painted. Were fashionable years ago, not so much now except in rooms with very high ceilings.

Picture window - A window comprising of a large, single pane or double/triple glazed unit.

Plywood - A manufactured building board consisting of a number of layers of wood veneer stuck together in such a way that the grain of one layer is at right angles to that of the previous layer. Various qualities of face veneer, thicknesses, number of layers etc are available to suit numerous applications

Rail - A horizontal or vertical strut used to make up a panelled door or window frame.

Rebate - An area of a window glazing bar recessed to take a pane of glass.

Sash window - A window consisting of two main frames that slide vertically past each other - each sash being counter balanced by a sash weight on a sash cord.

Spirit Level - A tool used to establish true vertical and horizontal lines by looking at a bubble in spirit filled vials.

Stile - The vertical member on each side of a framed door or window sash.

Straight grain - Grain (wood fibres) that aligns with the main axis of a length of timber.

Straightedge - A length of timber or metal with at least one edge truly straight for marking out, checking levels etc.

Stud wall - An internal, non-load bearing wall faced with lath and plaster or plasterboard. Often timber framed although metal frames are being introduced into domestic building - they have been used for many years in industrial ones.

Studs - The vertical wooden posts within a timber-frame wall.

Subfloor - The surface beneath a floor covering, usually of concrete or timber, and sometimes covered with hard board.

Suspended timber floors - The joists supporting the floor boards or chipboard are themselves supported by small "sleeper" walls at ground floor level or wall hangers at other floors. Older properties may have the joists built into the masonry walls which can lead to the ends of the joists rotting.

Timber frame - A method of building construction where the internal walls, floors, roof etc are manufactured in sections using timber off site and are erected onto a completed base built up from the foundations. In modern timber framed buildings, the inner timber construction is often covered by using an outer skin of brick or similar materials to give a traditional appearance.

Timber framed wall - A wall composed of structural wooden components, sheathed on both sides or infilled with masonry or wattle and daub.

Tongue and groove - A system of interlocking planks along the sides to produce a panelled surface.

Wainscot - Wood panelling or boarding on the lower part of an internal wall. AKA Dado.

Wood-block flooring - A type of wooden sheet flooring consisting of small blocks such as Parquet.

FROM: DIYData.com

Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos